Review: ‘Chef’

Director and star Jon Favreau may just have invented a new genre, the culinary road movie. This lively stroll through America’s gastronomic landscape is hardly original but has charm and laughs to spare. Also on the menu is a story about father-son bonding over the things you love and the film is sweetened with a little will-they-won’t-they romantic flavour. It’s a familiar but tasty confection.

Carl Casper (Favreau) is the warm hearted, broad-bodied head chef at an uppercrust Los Angeles eatery. He has the command of his kitchen, the respect of his team, and the adoration of diners. But a grim review from LA’s most virulent critic (a stone-faced Oliver Platt) and an ill-advised Twitter outburst in response send Carl onto Skid Row. So it’s back to his roots in Miami – behind the grill of a food truck – to rediscover his passion for his vocation and reconnect with his ex-wife and 10 year-old son.

Favreau seems to have returned to his roots here too. As with Swingers he’s crafted an amiable comedy about a basically decent guy down on his luck. He makes a likeable lead and a convincing chef, and is ably supported by the big name supporting cast, who all understand what’s going on and obviously are enjoying themselves. Wit and charm drive the action rather than plot – this is about the journey, not the destination.

But even with its celebrity ingredients, the real star is the cooking. In the same vein as 2000’s Chocolat, there are scenes where the camera serves no purpose but to worship the dish it’s pointed at. Never has slow-cooked Creole meat, or even a humble Cuban sandwich, looked so delicious. Sit through the credits and you’ll learn how a simple grilled cheese snack can be a religious experience.

There’s a pacing problem or two – the set-up of premise, characters and atmosphere takes waaaay too long – and Sofia Vergara is miscast as Carl’s ex-wife. But everything else is fine and so darn good-natured you almost don’t notice the problems. The whole thing breezes along to an infectious brassy jazz/swing soundtrack (‘Hot 8’s brass-driven version of ‘Sexual Healing’ is perfect for a night in if there’s Mexican on your menu). It feels organic, like good food should.

Favreau has made another film from his heart and (no doubt) his gut. I left with a smile on my face, and a rumble in my stomach – and went straight home to make a cheese toastie.

7.5/10

.